Large Charcoal Starter - Lone Star Dutch Oven Society

This is an article on how to build a 5 gallon charcoal starter capable of starting about 10 pounds of charcoal in 15 minutes. There are undoubtedly several ways to build a large starter, but this is how I do it. I have built several of these over the last few years, and I think I have finally got the design close to optimum for my needs. The starter is laying on its side relative to a chimney starter, but operates in the same way with an updraft of hot air.

I start with a new 5-gallon, straight-sided, steel can that has a handle and screw top opening on the top. I bring new cans home from work (with permission), but you might find a bucket at a service station that grease came in and wash it out. The first firing of charcoal will clean out all the oil and grease anyway. The first thing I do is cut out the top of the can with a hammer and cold chisel, cutting as close to the side of the can as possible.

Figure 1

Then I lay the can on its side with a two-by-four under the outside of the rim and pound any rough edges flat with a hammer from the inside.

Next, I use a magic marker and draw the area on the can that I need to cut out (about 1/3 of the side). Also, leave about an inch of that wall attached to the bottom of the can for strength. I cut out the marked piece

Figure 2

and smooth up the edges. This is important, and I recommend wearing heavy gloves to do it.

For the grating, I purchase a grate that is designed to be used in the bottom of a gas BBQ grill (the grate that holds the lava rock). It is usually heavier, stronger, and cheaper than a top grate. I get one that has a width (short side) equal to or just greater than the depth of the original can. The length of the grate isn't important as long as it is longer than the width (diameter) of the can. Cut the grate to fit and wire it into the can through holes you drill for the wire

Figure 3

Punch or drill about three ½ inch holes in the bottom of the can near the bottom side of the starter (Figure 5). Put another ½ inch hole at the top of the back of the starter. The bottom holes are so air can get in from the back, and the top hole is so you can pick up the hot starter. Use a lid lifter in the top hole combined with a shovel under the front of the grate to lift the starter when it has lit charcoal in it.

Now to the subject of legs. You could light charcoal with the unit as already built by just sitting it on the ground and propping a couple of bricks on each side to keep it from rolling. However, I strongly recommend legs so you don't damage the grass. I bought some 3/8th inch steel rod and cut 5 one-foot pieces. I then took a 2 by 12 and cut a piece about 4 inches longer than the starter for the base. I drilled five holes in the base into which I can slide the five rods

(figure 4 and 5).

They are arranged so that four of them support the starter, and the fifth one in the back keeps the starter from sliding off the rods when I am scooping up hot charcoal with a shovel. This setup works very well for me, and it all fits into a small cardboard box when disassembled.

When this starter is faced into the wind, it lights charcoal very quickly. I do an initial start by rolling up about 6 paper towels, soaking them with lighter fluid, and putting them under the grate in the starter so the flames go up through the charcoal to light it. When lit, turn it away from the wind by turning the entire base with a lid lifter. Add new charcoal on top to light more. Works well!

Created May, 1999

Updated Oct, 2004

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